Black Fork Mountain Wilderness Trip Report

Tom, Janet, and Dusty "The Trail Dog" Trigg so graciously invited me along on a 5 mile hike from the AR/OK border up to the Queen Wilhelmina Lodge, but upon arriving in the Queen's parking lot, we were greeted by a cold whirling white wind. Visibility was absolutely 0. We were as much in the clouds as ol' Saint Pete himself. So we decided to retreat to a lower elevation rather than wait for the sun to burn off the cloud cover. It proved to be a great decision.

Just a few hundred feet below us, the sun was shining and the temperature was just warm enough to shake off the chill we received up on the Queen's Mountain. It was only about a five minute drive down to the parking area on highway 270, and we were eager to get into the woods. We donned our packs, loosed the Trail Hound and bounded off into the wilderness with all the enthusiasm of a horde of kindergarteners on a shiny new playground.

A hundred yards or so from the parking area, we crossed a small footbridge (stopping of course to pose for photographs, as all famous wilderness explorers do) and then we started to climb. And climb. And climb.

About 30 minutes in, we all stopped and shucked our vests and windbreakers. Then we climbed some more. Up and up and up. The trail gained altitude quickly, and only leveled off long enough to allow us to catch our breath. The weather was perfect, but we found ourselves on the leeward side of the mountain, so we began wishing for a breeze as we ascended.

At just over a mile, where the Ouachita Trail separates from the Black Fork, (we hung a left and continued along the Black Fork) the briars started showing themselves; not bad enough to impede us, but enough to keep a hiker from swinging their arms carelessly at their side, lest one find the backs of their hands bloodied. By later in the summer, those briars will probably be more of an issue.

Also, the first significant climb up the Black Fork trail was washed out pretty significantly. Lots of loose, football-sized rocks that seemed ready to roll an ankle if improperly negotiated. Boots with good ankle support would prove invaluable throughout most of this hike. Tom bragged on his boots a little bit, then I bragged on mine a little, then Tom asked Janet how her boots were doing, and Dusty the trail dog said, "I don't need no stinkin' boots, ya bunch of pansies!" He was right, but we reminded him that he had two extra FEET, so it really wasn't fair. He didn't pick on us about our boots after that.

The next three miles or so provided good trail, albeit a steady climb. Off to the left, the Rich Mountain Fire Tower could be seen through the trees, and shortly after, the Queen's Lodge on her perch was veiwable off in the distance as well. Janet discovered a rock outcropping at the 3 mile mark or so, which gave us a really nice vista from which to snap some photos of the distant mountainside (and take a well-deserved rest!)

Onward and upward, we were on the lookout for a Rock Chimney described in Tim Ernst's Arkansas Trail Guide that Tom carries religiously. (An outstanding book, by the way. I slapped myself in the face for not owning it already. What's the matter with me anyway?) But there's a saying about vertical mileage feeling equivalent to running on a treadmill with wet tennis shoes...Okay, so there's no saying like that, but there should be. It felt like we should've been to the chimney by then, but alas, we never saw it. We saw several "popcorn trees" which drove Janet crazy because she couldn't think of their actual name. They're beautiful trees with small whitel flowers that, from a distance, look just like popcorn. As Janet wracked her brain trying to remember what they're called, Tom and I stared off into space and scratched our backsides. That's just what guys do sometimes. You know it's true.

The day was getting later, we had been at it for around 4 or 5 hours by now, and we were getting tired. Janet and Dusty decided to start heading for the truck, while Tom and I decided to forge onward and find this elusive Rock Chimney and the sure-to-satisfy vista that followed it.

The trail had really leveled off now and there was a bed of soft green moss laid out like a velvety carpet through an almost mystical forest brimming with very old Stunted Oaks, all spaced out and sized so perfectly, that it almost felt unnatural, like maybe it was too perfect. It was a marvelous treat to experience, and the ridgetop it was located on was flat and wide with a nice crossbreeze that really invigorated us.

Interestingly, the white blazes we'd been following all day became more pronounced and brighter. They were definately newer than the rest of the trail. Then the trail began a descent, and we weren't exactly sure how much further it might be to the chimney, and we decided that we had a long walk back (albeit downhill) and our water supplies were running low. Besides, neither of us was really excited about having to climb out of the valley we were descending into. So, as much as we hated to, we decided to abort the chimney mission and try to catch Janet and Dusty on their descent; which would also prove to be a challenge for which Tom and I were ill-equipped. But we gave it all we had.

The hike back to the vehicles was long, and our feet were speaking loudly in a language we both could understand. We took just a few breaks and made it back to the vehicles with only an hour and a half of sunlight left. We groaned together and watched Dusty trying his best to keep from dozing off. That was one tired pup!

I love to finish a trail as much as the next fella, but I have to say that I'm more excited about the Black Fork Mountain Wilderness Trail now than ever, because it proved to be a grand challenge with lots of great rewards, and now I have a great excuse to go back: We'll finish it next time!

Tom, Janet, and Dusty turned out to be truly ideal hiking partners. Lots of smiles, plenty of laughs, (they carry plenty of snacks too, which rates them high in my book!) and some great trail fellowship and conversation. They made an already enjoyable trail one-thousand times better just by being themselves and showing their appreciation for nature so openly, and by making a total stranger feel warmly welcomed along side them. You guys are the real deal. Thank you so much.

All in all, despite my tired footsies, the whole day was a total success. The Black Fork Wilderness Trail has earned my respect, humbled me, shared some unique beauty with me, and helped me make some great new friends. I highly recommend it.

Hey Jay,

What happend to feeling young in the morning and old by evening? Man what a trail! Yep we will be back but I feel like it would be more enjoyable if it was made into a overnight backpack. I do want to keep followning those blazes.. Well I don't know how you were able to do all of that typing at around 11:30! By the way Dusty is still out cold. Talk about a snoring dog! He was sawing logs last night. Well we will have to do it again some time.

Jay,

Here are the fellows that went up into the Blackfork on Sat. This is Charlie Williams in Tulsa he providesFREE trail maps and very good reports. He also has a very good free film of a trip back in 06 into Caney Creek. This is from BP.com:

Hey Backpackers and Hikers

Dennis and I mapped the Black Fork Mt Trail this weekend and a new topo is now up on the website. I'll be adding a trail report soon and send out another email then. One question, however, does any one know who did the trail maintenance over the last several months? We took machetes and nippers but found most of the trail in excellent shape. Kudos to whoever it was.

Also, I just got word from the Forest Service that the Big Cedar RV park is no longer providing hiker shuttles. If anyone learns of new ones or has news on existing ones, let me know and I'll pass the word and update the list on OuachitaMaps.com.

Charlie

Wilderness Sign Tom, Dusty the trail dog and Jay

This is from ouachitamaps.com:


This is the chimney from the homestead on top of Blackfork Mountain.

Here is the stunted Oak forest:



The view from the top: